A place of grandiose pilgrimage – unspoilt by international tourist crowds
Eine deutsche Version dieses Artikels finden sie hier.
A German version of this posting you can find here.
The attentive reader of “Ways to Japan” knows that it does not necessarily mean insignificance in Japan if a place rarely appears on the well-trodden tourist routes and if Mr Baedeker has nothing at all to say about it. However, when you read place names like “Kawasaki”, you probably think more of “engine companies” and modern industry than of dreamy places of pilgrimage. But we wouldn’t be in Japan if there wasn’t a “just as well” here, too.
Let’s first take a look at the core data of the place we are going to get to know today:
- Main object of worship: Yakuyoke Kōbō Daishi (厄除弘法大師 / やくよけこうぼうだいし)
- Buddhist sect: Chinsan school of Shingon-Buddhism (真言宗 智山派 / しんごんしゅう ちさんは)
- Year of foundation: 1128 AD (Daiji 3)
- Official name: Kongōsan Kinjōin Heikei-ji (金剛山 金乗院 平間寺 / こんごうさん きんじょういん へいけんじ)
- Colloquial name: Yakuyoke Kōbō Daishi (厄除弘法大師 / やくよけこうぼうだいし) or, more commaonly, Kawasaki Daishi (川崎大師 / かわさきだいし)
- Founder: Buddhist priest Sonken (尊賢上人 / そんけんしょうにん)
- Conributor: Kanenori Hirama (平間兼乗氏 / ひらまかねのり)
The Kawasaki Daishi belongs with the Narita-san Shinshō-ji (成田山新勝寺) in Narita (Chiba-ken) (千葉県成田市) and the Takao- san Yakuō-in (高尾山薬王院) in Hachiōji (Tōkyō) (東京都八王子市) to the largest temples of the Chisan school of Shingon Buddhism.
Narita-san Shinshō-ji (成田山新勝寺)
– Unexpected splendidness at the gates of Tōkyō
Takao-san (高尾山)
– A (sometimes) crowded hideaway
The fact that the temple is not at the top of the visitor lists today may surprise on the one hand, because it can look back on a history of almost 900 years. On the other hand, it may also be due to the fact that none of the original buildings have survived (which, in turn, does not seem to bother visitors to the Sensō-ji in Asakusa).
The founder of the temple, Kanenori Hirama (平間兼乗氏), whose life data are unknown, a samurai “mistakenly” deprived of his possessions, had made a special effort to venerate the great buddhist founder Kōbō Daishi (弘法大師) (774 to 835 AD) during his pilgrimages through Japan. When he had already reached the age of 42 years (although one does not know his life data, this of all things seems to be undisputed), he was still pondering his unhappy fate and constantly pleading to drive away evil.
As is the case with so many origins of religions, but also temple foundations, the Kawasaki Dashi took its origin in a dream – in this case a dream of Kanenori (remember this when you have another miraculous dream!). Those who know the story of the Kannon statue at the Hase Dera (長谷寺) in Kamakura (鎌倉), 30 km further south on the shores of the Pacific, cannot avoid a sense of déjà vu. For here, too, it was about a statue carved far away – in the case of the Kawasaki Daishi, a self-portrait carved in China by Kōbō Daishi’s hand – (remember this, too: true self-glorification only works if you can also wield the carving knife properly yourself!) that was thrown into the sea – obviously for the sole purpose of being fished out of the water again in the Tōkyō Bay. Kōbō Daishi, who told Kanenori about this in his dream, also took the opportunity to promise him salvation from all his misfortunes if he found the statue and made offerings to it in the form of food, incense, flowers, etc… So Kanenori did as he was told in the dream, went out to sea, found a glittering spot in the open waters and when he pulled in his net, there lay the wooden statue of the legendary (and so revered by him) Kōbō Daishi.
It goes without saying that a whole number of unusual, miracle-working properties are attributed to the statue (you would certainly have to work on this a bit in your own carving). Today, it is kept as the main token of worship of the temple in the main hall (大本堂 / だいほんどう). And the auspicious effect of the statue still makes the temple one of the most popular in the region – at New Year, when locals make their traditional “first temple visits of the year”, the Kawasaki Daishi sees two to three million visitors in just a couple of days.
In 1128 AD (the year Daiji 3, the 6th year of the reign of the Sotoku Tennō (崇徳天皇)), Kanenori began building a temple together with the Buddhist priest Sonken.
However, the temple only gained real importance 500 years later, when members of the Tokugawa clan (who guided Japan’s fortunes for 250 years) bestowed their patronage on it.
The temple complex was almost completely destroyed in connection with the widespread destruction of Kawasaki by B-29 bombers during World War II. The temple’s library, which documented the history (including the construction history) of the Kawasaki Daishi, was also destroyed. No wonder, that its historical origins can no longer be reconstructed in detail. And, as I said, perhaps that is also a reason why – despite the grandiosity of the temple complex – at least the international interest in the temple is rather modest.
But that is just one more reason to enjoy the opportunity to immerse oneself in a less touristy atmosphere. I.e. the tourist aspects are rather local than international. Those who want to watch sweets being made by hand are well catered for on the pilgrimage road (Nakamise Dōri / 仲見世通り), which leads from east to west towards the temple’s main gate (大山門 / だいさんもん), as well as all those who crave lucky charms and daruma (達磨 / だるま) in all colours and sizes.
Let’s take a closer look at at least some of the numerous buildings on the compound:
Main Hall (大本堂 / だいほんどう)
The image of Kōbō Daishi (Kukai 774-835), the founder of Shingon Buddhism, believed to ward off all evil, is being kept in the centre of the hall. It is the centre of teaching and the focus of the Kawasaki Daishi’s prayers. A Goma Ceremony (護摩), the rite of burning cedar sticks, is performed daily in the main hall to ensure world peace and the safety of the followers.
Main Gate (大山門 / だいさんもん)
The gate is protected, as it should be, by four heavenly kings, the guardians of the four cardinal points.
Octagonal, five-storeyed Pagoda (八角五重塔 / はっかくごじゅのとう)
This pagoda is derived from stupas in India, where the Buddha’s ashes are kept. The five-storey structure represents the five basic elements of the Buddhist universe: Earth, Water, Fire, Wind and Sky. The pagoda symbolises Dainichi Nyorai, the Buddha worshipped in esoteric Shingon Buddhism.
Sutra Hall (経蔵 / きょうぞう)
The hall is relatively new, having only been inaugurated in 2004 to commemorate the founding of the temple. This sutra repository houses 7,240 volumes of woodblock prints of the Qianlong version of the Daizōkyō (大蔵経) (Daizang Sutra) from China.
The five-pointed pestle in front of the main object of worship, Sakyamuni Buddha, symbolises the highest position of esoteric Shingon Buddhism, and it is believed that it can connect to Buddha through its gold leaf.
Yakushi Hall (薬師殿 / やくしでん)
The hall was opened on 1 November 2008 to mark the 880th anniversary of the foundation. One of Japan’s rare, more Indian-style temple buildings. A statue of Yakushi Nyorai (薬師如来) is venerated in it. Those who know a little about mudra postures know:
- The raised right hand is said to drive away all evil and fear.
- Medicine pot in the left hand is supposed to heal the supplicant and entrust him to the protection of the twelve “divine generals” (the twelve “Earthly Branches” of the Chinese zodiac).
Special healing powers are said to emanate from a similar, but smaller statue just next to the one depicted above. If one touches it gently on the spot where one’s own body has an ailment.
Here, by the way, one can also ensure through prayers and blessings that one’s own automobile gets through the rigours of road traffic free of accidents (the belief in this must, of course, be robustly pronounced if one also believes that one can henceforth also do without any insurance cover…).
Opening Hours:
The Kawasaki Daishi is open all year round.
No entrance fees are charged.
How to get there:
Take the Keikyū line to Keikyū Kawasaki station.
Change there to the Keikyū Daishi line and get off at Kawasaki Daishi station. The temple is a good 10-minute walk from the station.
Recommendation: Enter the temple grounds from the east through the large main gate (as indicated below on the GoogleMaps view).
Let me surprise you!
Close to the Kawasaki Daishi, there are two more gems to explore – you can find out more about them peu-a-peu here… I’ll just tell you this much: it’s going to be very Chinese!
Kawasaki Shinshū-en (川崎瀋秀園)
– A Chinese gem
And nearby there is also a place for “virile members”…
Kanayama Jinja (金山神社)
– A place for “virile members”
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